arroyo outside of Taos, NM

No, really »Buy This Photo!«

The way was tight, but Juan del Llano persevered, stepping over clumps of cactus and sharp edges of broken sage to plant his boots in unmarked golden sand. It was precisely this that drew him to explore such places, quiet, mysterious, and protected, where secret magic dwelt. In that way there was always something precious and held back, shining just around the bend, where one only had to tread but hadn’t yet.

Whether looking at his feet or at the face of the eroded banks, Juan could read a little of the record of the past. Looking up, he saw five feet of dark brown dirt above a tight layer of water-smoothed stones—river rocks for sure, from however many millennia ago that much fresh water roared down from on high, if the mountains were even there. Juan paused to take this in but couldn’t, not at first. He was walking in the desert. Agua was a concept for the brave.

Farther on he found a burrow entrance, too high up to peer into but large enough to give him pause. There was never any way to know what might come out to meet him or be lurking just within. He imagined a coyote family, rabid skunks, or perhaps a tiny little old man in a dirty sweatshirt screaming curses. Anything was possible, even treasure or a burial site. An eighty-year-old hippie artist Juan knew had once dug up an ancient shaman’s grave with intact pottery and other wonders on his homestead in the foothills south of town—he took the skull and artifacts inside, then one night realized the head was his from another lifetime and reburied everything the next day.

Juan kept walking and watched his thoughts. He probably would have kept the bones, he told himself, and wished that he could find some. In his mind’s eye, a broad and shallow prehistoric river fed by melting snow poured across the plain and rattled all the stones. The thing that hadn’t happened shimmered in his heart an instant and lay dark but didn’t go away. Eventually around a turn, he saw a rough path worn into the bank—coyotes, likely—and climbed out to the trail.

That night he slept without the talking in his head. The next morning when he kissed his wife, the coolness of her upper lip was an electric shock that tickled all day long.

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Cool New Mexico Video

Preview frame above from the Rio Grande Gorge near Taos

Found the link on Twitter and just thought I’d post this. New Mexico stole my heart a long time ago, you know. It’s so different here. More kind, somehow, without so many people. Beautiful and dangerous! So goddamn old, mysterious, and crazy empty. You get used to driving down the highway all alone. It’s such a privilege and a joy.

Beast of Spring

caterpillar

Two inches long and in a hurry »Buy This Photo!«

I was walking at Taos Valley Overlook yesterday and saw this fellow (?) beside the trail when I stopped to answer a call of nature. Almost wet him down, in fact. All in all, I saw four more that morning. Three were heading east, one was moving south, and the other was going west. Make of that what you will, but none of them were going slow.

Not knowing the sex of the critter made me google “caterpillar gender.” It turns out that caterpillars are sexually immature and don’t reproduce until they’re butterflies or moths. The only way to tell what’s going on with an actual caterpillar is to kill it (by dunking in alcohol) and dissect it by making a long incision lengthwise along the body. If it’s a male, there will be a pair of tiny orange-yellow testes about a third of the way back from the head, and you’ll probably need a magnifying glass to see them. That would be odd placement in a biped. On the other hand, the color sounds kind of groovy.

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Peace in the Valley

cat on sheepskin on leather sofa

Painting is entitled “Interlude at Possum Cove.” Yours truly is the man. »Buy This Photo!«

No more running. I’ve already hemmed and hawed and sniffed and pawed and dreamed and schemed and tried to cheat my way to heaven for more years than most of you reading this have been alive. The last fifteen years in Taos have blown the half-way measures all to hell, but that’s probably what they were for.

Interestingly, someone I respect emailed this a few weeks ago. It means a lot to me:

You’re one of the few who arrived and immediately experienced the spiritual imagination of the place and appreciated it in an articulate and instinctive way. What intrigues me is how many people move here and are tone deaf. I can’t figure out why they are here since they might as well live in Colorado: beautiful but soul-less (to me except for the southern border counties). Tahoe is similar: beautiful but the chthonic spirits are absent. ‘Course sometimes a man needs relief from the resonating spirits. They can drive you mad.

“One of the few,” okay then. Pay attention and be true.

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Dying to the Past

old Tewa pottery

Tewa pottery from the dead landlord’s apartment and probably this very hillside »Buy This Photo!«

I needed to make the dead landlord’s sofa go away, the one we’d been using for a bloody decade. The movers who brought the good leather sofa from my wife’s studio had carried the old one out back, out of sight, but I knew it was there. The dark force of it seeped into the ground with all the rest. Inside the house, the wall behind where it had sat was cracked, pushed out from water damage and growing tree roots, signaling the end. I hadn’t looked back there since I moved in years ago. Who knew how long this had been going on? The only certainty was that one day the big elm tree would take the north wall with it as it fell.

A buddy of mine offered his muscle and his truck to haul the sofa to the dump. He knows this property well and counts our former neighbors as his friends. It’s all about heart with him. Once he told me about hearing the heartbeat of a tiny mouse deep inside a log he was cutting. Another time (as related in Taos Soul), he was driving when we came around a curve in the mountains west of Tres Piedras:

“That’s where I got my first elk,” he said, motioning with his chin. The way he said it, I knew it was a long time ago, and that he’d done it many times since then.

He told me he’d been out working nearby, when his companion shouted that there was a “cow” down in the creek. He wasn’t thinking elk, but that’s what he found after going to investigate: a badly-wounded elk cow. Someone had shot off a hind hoof, and the animal was terrified and could no longer run. He approached her cautiously. As he got up close, he could sense or hear her heart beating loudly: ka-BOOM-pah, ka-BOOM-pah!

“Don’t be afraid,” he said. “I’ve come to release you.” Immediately, her heartbeat quieted and slowed. [ka-boom-pah, ka-boom-pah]

She let him come right up to her.

He pulled out his .44…and shot her in the head!

He showed up three days later. Before getting down to work, we sat down and had a fine manly conversation about old trucks, houses, and getting what you want. He asked how our housing search was going. I told him there wasn’t much happening yet, mostly just the slit-your-throat listings that so depress my wife. Another concern, I said, was not having much saved beyond a down payment if we did buy. He said he thought my writing would take off once we had a place and things were settled. A foundation, a grounding. A week before, he’d told me to ask my heart to show us our next home. He knew that we could find one, and also said he saw “so much potential” in me and that my energy field was very strong.

I showed him the tree and the wall. No question, nothing here but tear-downs. But why had the neighbors stayed as long as they did, and why were we still around?

“There’s some kind of energy that tries to keep you here. It holds you, and it’s old. Really, really old,” he said. I knew exactly what he meant! He went on to say that the neighbors had wanted to leave but simply couldn’t. “I tried to get them to move for a whole year and a half,” he said. Eventually they did buy a home in another neighborhood and never wanted to come back—although they own the empty place next door or will, if the inheritance is ever worked out.

“Speaking of old,” I said, reaching down to pick up a large flat chunk of polished stone beside the flower bed and handing it to him.

“A metate!” he said.

“Yep, a piece of one. It’s old, all right. From the property around here.”

“Old, yes. And broken…

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